Saturday, January 19, 2013

Let's talk about Soup

Another chapter from the unnamed cookbook:

Soup. I love soup. Making soup. Eating soup. If I could have a little soup take-out place like that one that was on "Seinfeld" I would be a happy girl. Probably poor, but happy. Soup is a feel good food. It can be elegant, earthy, hearty, light..You can make soup out of just about anything. Believe me, I am the master of "what's in the refrigerator" soup. The best part about soup making is that there are virtually no rules. The only way to mess up soup is to make it so salty that there is no way to eat it. Other than consomme, there are no soup recipes that need to be followed to the letter. Remember that, as you read some of the recipes I provide. They are a starting point. Most any of my soups can be made with chicken stock, vegetable stock, or, in a pinch, what I like to call "tap stock"...water. The right amount of seasonings and no one will be able to tell the difference.

The first thing we need to discuss is how to make your own stock. I will give you the recipes for two.

Chicken Stock
It isn't hard to make, but it does require that you pay a bit of attention to the cooking process, so that your stock will not be cloudy or too fatty. You can use chicken bones, backs and necks if you can find them, or just buy a small fryer. When the stock is finished, you will have some meat to use for soup or chicken salad.

2 lbs. of chicken bones, or a small frying chicken
2 onions, peeled and quartered
2 carrots, washed and cut in chunks
2 celery stalks, washed and cut in chunks
1 bay leaf
A couple of whole black peppercorns
A splash of white wine
COLD water to cover

Put all the ingredients in a pot and bring to a boil. (You use cold water to start, because if you used warm or hot water, the chicken fat would melt and never rise to the top of the stock. Your stock would be fatty and inedible.) This is where you need to keep an eye (or nose) out. When you see or small the stock come to a boil, reduce the heat immediately to a simmer and skim the funky brown stuff that forms on the top. Then, let the pot simmer for about an hour or so. If you decide to make a larger amount, simmer for two hours. Strain, and cool.
A great idea (I think I've mentioned before) is to freeze the stock in ice cube trays, then pop them out and store in a zippy bag in the freezer. If you are making soup though, just store it in larger quantities.

Vegetable Stock
There really is no recipe for vegetable stock. It depends what you have on hand, which flavor you would like to be predominant, where you roast the veggies before you simmer them...I guess it depends on how much time you want to put into it. I use the basics-carrots, celery, onion, then add whatever else is cheap and flavorful; zucchini, tomatoes, mushrooms, turnips. If you are having asparagus for dinner, use the stems instead of throwing them away. I also add bay leaf and peppercorn. You can add garlic cloves if you like. The only rule I have is not to use peelings from carrots or potatoes. They will make the stock bitter. The French have a saying (Chef Claude told us in culinary school) that goes something like "if you put garbage in your stock, it will taste like garbage."
Vegetable stock is a great, cheap, and vegetarian way to make soup. It has no fat, virtually no sodium, and if you make it dark and flavorful enough, is a great addition to any dish that needs liquid. You can cook rice or lentils in it, use it in sauces, etc. It has the most wonderful smell simmering on the stove, too. Have yourself a nice, steaming mug of it before you use it all up. It's better than tea sometimes.

Tomorrow, we will begin making soup. Now go make some stock and get ready!

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